Because we might get bored if we stay at
this delightful hotel with all the amenities you could ever want (and I have my
kindle loaded with about 20 unread books), we took off to Fort Galle to eat
lunch and check out the community that still lives within its walls.
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Small row of tuk tuks |
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Crazy traffic |
I have to start out with driving here in Sri Lanka….it seems like I should get
over it…just ignore it...but...it seems to just be a reoccurring theme…and you
might miss it if I skipped it. Not only that, it will make you appreciate how
good we have it in the states when the local idiot does something stupid on the
road. Remember the tuktuks we rode in long ago in Thailand? They have been
upgraded and improved here and they can be found absolutely everywhere – most are
for hire but since they’re cheap, (relatively speaking) sometimes a family buys
them for personal use. They are ubiquitous. Now they usually do stick to
driving down the left side (yes, we're back to drive to the left), in a
somewhat slower lane, except for when they don’t. Motorcycles and bike fit in
that same category, hugging the left except when they’re passing, driving down
the road, dodging a dog, kid, bike or tourist. They pass when they like, the cars pass when
they want, the buses and trucks pass and get passed by each other and all of
the above. They pass on straight stretches, curves, partial curves, around
corners and into oncoming traffic. If
someone is coming towards you well...they’ll honk their horn, you’ll honk your
horn, they might stop, or perhaps slow
down...you swing back in, the tuktuk backs off. It looks chaotic and most
foreigners have decided that the best way to deal with it is… to not look. They
do have a booming business of drivers for hire…
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The wall - high enough to stop the tsunami |
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The Lighthouse |
Fort Galle history in a nutshell: The fort was started by the Portuguese to
protect them from the natives. For some strange reason the native people
objected to the Portuguese taking their lands, essentially making them work for
not much money, and then punishing them when they objected – they built a jail
there to house the Sinhalese people who tried to fight them. There was some
good from the development of trade – spices were a hot commodity - but still.... The walls of the fort were built
up on the east side, the land, protection from the natives. Well...they weren't
expecting the Dutch, from the sea so in yet another gory battle, the Dutch
defeated the Portuguese and proceeded to take over the land and trade. The
Dutch built up the seaward wall and added lots of bastions and other
improvements so that they had a protective ring around the entire community at
Galle Fort. At various times, over the years, proposals were made to change or
remove structures but they always maintained the integrity of the fort...and
nothing has ever breached its walls since, including the 2004 tsunami that hit
the area. While the tsunami took out communities to the north and south, the
force of the waves did not breach the fort.
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Al Meera Mosque |
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Buddhist temple |
The lighthouse is one of the main structures that is visited there. It is still
in use today because the coastline here is filled with hundreds of rocks. There
are also a large number of monuments left in the fort including the Dutch
Reformed Church, the Dutch government museum, the Clock Tower, the Meera
Mosque, a Buddhist Temple, a Roman Catholic church and the Al Saints Anglican
Church. Quite a mix of religions within this small site.
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